I love the look of things knitted with huge yarn, so when I happened across some Bernat Big at a thrift store, I knew I had to get it. (And then I did end up needing to buy a second ball for this bag.) I made the bag with finger knitting because I don’t have size 50(!) needles as the packaging suggested.
First, I boxed the corners of a flat tote bag to use as a lining so it would have a defined shape. I lined up the center of the bottom and the center of the edge, flattened it, and sewed straight across.
I made a row of slip knots as my “cast on.” I didn’t pull the slip knots very tight because the yarn is plush enough to stick to itself, and I wasn’t worried about the knots coming undone. I also worked purls into the backs in a later step.
For finger knitting:
Knits are made by pulling a loop of yarn through a stitch on the previous row from the back to the front.
Purls are made by pulling a loop of yarn through a stitch on the previous row from the front to the back.
Since I didn’t use needles, I obviously did my cables without a cable needle. (Searching that phrase should turn up some tutorials if that doesn’t mean anything to you.)
Here are the instructions for the bag I made, with suggestions for different dimensions at the end of the pattern.
Supplies:
– 2 balls of bernat big (or other huge yarn)
– Tote bag to use as a lining (I would not recommend leaving your bag unlined, unless you enjoy your things falling out between the stitches)
Cast on 7 by making slip knots that are not pulled tightly. You will purl into the base of the slip knots at a later step.
Keeping the right side facing you:
Row 1: knit left to right
Row 2: knit right to left
Row 3: knit left to right
Now flip your work over so the stockinette (knitted) side is facing down. This is the bottom of the bag. The next step is to purl around to define the bottom from the sides.
Purl 7 across the live stitches, purl into the side of the panel twice, purl 7 across the cast on stitches, purl into the other side of the panel twice
Now you’ll knit the front/side/back/side, working in the round.
Round 1: *k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p2* twice
Round 2: *k1, p1, c2f, k1, p1, k1, p2* twice
Round 3: *k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p2* twice
Round 4: *k1, p1, k1, c2b, p1, k1, p2* twice
Repeat rounds 1-4 until the knitted bag matches the height of your lining.
Cast off loosely to keep the top of the bag from scrunching up: Knit 2, pull the second live stitch through the previous one, *knit 1, pull newest loop through previous stitch* to end of round until only one stitch is “live” (not secured by another stitch). Then cut the yarn and pull the tail through the final stitch. Weave into the first cast off stitch to create a uniform look.
Handles:
The handle consists of knitting in stockinette on the front side of the liner tote’s handle and passing the yarn across the back of it. This makes the working end of the yarn wrap around the handle with each row, so to avoid this, estimate how many rows it will take to encase the length of one handle and wrap the end of the yarn through the handle that many times, in the opposite direction from the direction you will wrap when knitting the handle. This way, the yarn will unwind from the handle as you knit.
Attach the yarn and knit into two stitches at the top of the bag at the handle of the lining
Pass the yarn behind the handle, and knit into those two stitches in the same direction as before.
Repeat until you reach the other end of the handle.
Cut the yarn and use the tail to secure the two live stitches, weaving as needed to create a uniform look.
If the canvas bag you use as a lining is a different size, or if your gauge is different, you may have a different number of stitches. The sides of the bag are just reverse stockinette, so you can add as many columns of purls as is appropriate with no significant changes.
For different widths of front/back, here are some suggestions for alternate patterns.
6 stitches wide, a twisted cable:
Round 1: k1, p1, k2, p1, k1
Round 2: k1, p1, c2f, p1, k1
8 stitches wide, a twisted cable on a wider reverse stockinette background:
Round 1: k1, p2, k2, p2, k1
Round 2: k1, p2, c2f, p2, k1
9 stitches wide, a braided cable on a wider reverse stockinette background:
Round 1: k1, p2, k3, p2, k1
Round 2: k1, p2, c2f, k1, p2, k1
Round 3: k1, p2, k3, p2, k1
Round 4: k1, p2, k1, c2b, p2, k1
9 stitches wide, two twisted cables (this has them twist opposite directions, you could also have them twist the same direction):
Round 1: k1, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k1
Round 2: k1, p1, c2f, p1, c2b, p1, k1